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Thursday, April 29, 2010

Galle and the South Coast

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This is the area from Galle down to Hambatota on the extreme south east coast. The beaches here are far less touristy than the busier west coast; it is not unusual to find yourself alone on long, dreamy stretches of palm fringed sand. Broadly speaking, as you get further east, it becomes more remote and less busy. Some of the prettiest palm fringed bays in the country are found on this stretch of coast and the region is regarded as truly Sri Lankan and a bastion of Sinhala patriotism.

Galle itself recovered very well from the severe shock it took during the 2004 tsunami. It is a bustling, industrious town with a circle of interesting villages surrounding it, all specialising in different crafts. The marvelous Galle Fort is the highlight – an old Dutch fort, left entirely undamaged by the tsunami and characterised by fantastic old buildings, narrow alleyways and craft shops. The Galle Fort Hotel is the last word in style and is fast gaining a reputation as one of the best new hotels in Asia and the food is superb. There are several other excellent small hotels both inside the walled area of the fort and on the hills in the town itself, such as the Sun House and The Dutch House. There are also several beautiful villas available for hire within the fort, even for just a few days. In the lush tropical countryside, 6km from town, is the beautiful Illuketiya. This stunning heritage property has perhaps the most amazing gardens in Ceylon. For all the trimmings of an luxurious 5* spa hotel, stay at the beautiful, Bawa designed The Lighthouse.

A little further down the coast is the cool traveler hang out of Unawatuna. Regarded as one of the best beaches on the 70’s hippie trail, Unawatuna retains a laid back vibe which has survived a battering in the tsunami. Thambapanni Retreat is a great place to retire away from the buzz of the beach with its restaurants, bars and clubs. There are several other inexpensive and chic places in the vicinity.

Next door is the quiter village of Thalpe which has a number of villas for hire. It also has the beautiful Apa Villas, an award winning hotel that has the elegant feel of a private villa with the superb service of a five star hotel.

Further round the coast highlights include hiring your own island at Weligama; Tabrobane Island is just off the coast in the middle of wide bay and favoured by novelists and aristocrats. Mirissa is arguably the prettiest bay on the coast and retains a sleepy fishing village ambiance. The Palace is the place to stay, or Sea View, for those on a budget. Inland a mile or two is the incomparable villa at Mirrisa Hills. The spectcular views of the pretty beaches and wonderful design of the villa make this the most spectacular villa on the island.

In Dickwella the Bawa designed boutique hotel, Claughton House, is a wonderful place to stay.

Skimming across many interesting spots, the next concentration of hotels comes at and around Tengalle. Four main beaches and several smaller coves make up one of the most beautiful and peaceful areas in Sri Lanka. Lansiya is a spectacular villa that can be rented in its entirety to ensure privacy or space for a family or a couple. Amanwella is the new and highly exclusive resort only opened in March 2006. At the other end of the scale, the laid back, friendly and good value Palm Paradise Cabanas is a long running favourite of return visitors to Sri Lanka. The beautiful, deserted and quiet beaches in this area are a million miles from the touristy west coast.

Finally in from the coast and around Yala national park are two of our favourite places. Let nature come to you with Lars and his excellent crew at Treetops, Buttala. This place is an experience in itself taking you back to a more simple way of living – in a remote and beautiful area where elephants and people still co-exist together. Nearby Galapita is an eco-resort too – but with a deeply stylish and fine finish. Although simple this place is extremely comfortable and well equipped – you won’t wish for anything. Families may wish to hire an entire bungalow at Thipola in order to visit Yala, while people who prefer more conventional hotels may prefer the excellent Yala Village.

It is also possible to hire one of several villas along this coast and have it all to yourself. Most of these villas come equipped with full staff including cooks and are perfect for groups of friends, families or couples wanting to get away from it all. Many of these properties are simply amazing: imagine owning your own slice of paradise, if only for a week! Please contact us for more details.

The Cultural Triangle

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The ‘Cultural Triangle’ is the area roughly between Sigiriya to the south, Anuradhapura to the north west and Polonnaruwa to the east. It was the cradle of the ancient irrigation civilisation of Sri Lanka that flourished 2500 years ago. It is a wonderful region to visit – monuments spanning a period of 1700 years are in abundance and in close proximity.

Anuradhapura is the jewel in the crown – one of the worlds’ great cities in its heyday, 2200 years ago. Sigiriya – a pleasure palace built upon a huge rock, is a mind boggling remnant of ancient engineering prowess and has a magnificent view to boot. Polonnaruwa is perhaps the most accessible of the ruins as much is intact and the artistry and skill apparent at sites such as the Gal Vihara Buddhas, is startling.

The area remains thinly populated and large areas are given over to national parks. It is a beautiful area in any case and if you are lucky you may see elephants out in the wild. You will certainly see monkeys and birds of all descriptions; snakes, lizards and various other fauna. For a safari trip you can go leopard spotting in Wilpattu or enjoy the richly varied landscapes at Wasgomuwa. For observing elephants in their natural habitat, there are great short safaris to be enjoyed to either Miniriya or Kandulla.

The best places to stay are clustered towards the centre of this area. Nearby the cave temples of Dambulla by the Kandalama Tank (ancient reservoir) is the incomparable and beautifully designed The Kandalama. Across the Tank is the spacious and tranquil Amaya Lake.

Further north, at Habarana, is the stylish The Lodge, its design based on the ancient monastic complex at Ritigala. At Sigiriya itself, 'Hotel Sigiriya’ offers good value and a lovely view of the rock while the beautifully laid out Sigiriya Village has its own organic farm and is fantastic for families.

In 150 acres of its own land near Sigiriya, Sri Lanka’s first designer hotel, Elephant Corridor offers the ultimate in safari lodge style luxury. The rooms come equipped with night vision goggles and their own pools...

Accommodation is sparse at Anuradhapura but the ‘Tissawewa Resthouse’ is a wonderful old colonial building with atmosphere to match. Situated in the Sacred City (ancient Anuradhapura) itself, it is an evocative place to relax after a long days sightseeing.

Nearby Polonnaruwa has a range of options. For comfort and an excellent spa, try the upmarket, The Deer Park besides Girtale Tank. There are also a number of value hotels in this area.

One of Experience Sri Lanka’s favourite activities in the area is the fantastic Hot Air Ballooning operation run by Asian ballooning specialists, Adventure Asia. There is no better way to see the magnificent Sigiriya Rock and the surrounding wildlife.


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